Are you someone who appreciates wearing suits or aspires to? This comprehensive manual is designed to assist you in exploring various types of suits and how to make selections that work for you.
If you're new to the realm of suits, you might be surprised to discover that there's more to them than just a jacket and trousers. Everything from the fabric cut to the number of buttons can significantly influence how a suit looks and feels. Fashion trends may come and go, but true style endures.
That's why we're here to guide you through properly fitting your suit to your body, selecting a style appropriate for the occasion, and understanding what works best for you.
Selecting the Fabric
When it comes to fabric selection, it's essential to choose a woven material that strikes a balance between durability and comfort. Additionally, consider the climate as fabrics vary in weight, with lightweight options being suitable for warmer weather and heavier fabrics more appropriate for colder climates.
Fabric Weight : Suit fabrics are typically categorised into three weight divisions:
- Lightweight (210‐270 grams)
- Midweight (285‐390 grams)
- Heavyweight (390‐460 grams)
Lightweight fabrics are best suited for hot climates, while midweight fabrics offer year-round comfort, and heavyweight fabrics provide warmth in colder weather.
Common Suit Fabrics : While wool is a standard choice for suits due to its breathability and durability, there are various other fabrics worth considering. Worsted wool, known for its long
fibers, is highly regarded for suiting material, with Super 100 to Super 130 being desirable benchmarks for quality.
In addition to wool, lightweight fabrics such as linen and mohair offer alternatives, while silk and cashmere blends provide luxury and added comfort. Cotton is another commonly used material, and avant-garde options like velvet and satin are available for those seeking unique styles.
Blending fabrics is also common in modern suits to combine the best characteristics of different materials, enhancing comfort and practicality without compromising quality.
Suit Fit Styles
An essential aspect of men's suit designs is how they are tailored to fit the body. Note: This doesn't mean wearing a suit overly tight or loose ‐ which often indicates a poorly fitted suit! Instead, it refers to the deliberate inclusion of excess fabric as a style choice.
SLIM FIT
Slim-fit suits minimise excess fabric, providing a narrow silhouette at the chest and waist that tapers along the body. While ideal for showcasing a well-toned physique, slim fit suits are versatile and suitable for various body types, not limited to athletic builds. They typically feature sleek jackets and tapered trousers, often chosen for casual occasions and occasionally worn in formal settings, defying conventional fashion norms. Slim fit is a prevailing trend in contemporary men's fashion.
CLASSIC FIT
As the name suggests, classic fit suits offer a traditional silhouette with the loosest fit available. Versatile and timeless, they are found in a wide array of suit designs, ranging from semi-casual to highly formal. Perfect for office wear and various social events, classic fit suits strike a balance between roominess and a well-tailored appearance, avoiding a loose or sloppy look.
MODERN FIT
Ideal for those undecided on the most suitable fit, modern fit suits occupy a middle ground between slim fit and classic fit. They provide a more tailored appearance than classic fit while offering more comfort and flexibility than slim fit. This versatility allows modern fit suits to transition seamlessly between different occasions, from work settings to casual gatherings.
The choice of suit style often depends on the formality of the event. For instance, formal occasions like weddings may require a tuxedo or another appropriate formal suit, while single-breasted navy suits are suitable for more formal business settings.
Personal preference also plays a significant role in selecting the right suit style. If you prefer a classic and timeless look, a three-piece suit with notch lapels could be an excellent starting point.
Understanding the Cut of the Blazer
The structure of the jacket, or blazer, significantly influences its appearance and styling options.
DOUBLE-BREASTED SUITS
With two rows of buttons and a distinctive wrap-around front, double-breasted suits offer a sophisticated alternative. Buttoning rules are similar to single-breasted suits, with the bottom buttons left undone.
SINGLE-BREASTED SUITS
Featuring one row of buttons down the centre, single-breasted suits are versatile and suitable for various occasions. Proper buttoning etiquette is essential, with only the top or middle button fastened when standing.
UNSTRUCTURED BLAZERS
Designed with minimal padding for a softer fit, unstructured blazers are ideal for casual wear and warmer seasons. Careful maintenance is required to prevent wrinkling due to the lack of internal structure.
TUXEDOS
Reserved for formal events, tuxedos feature satin accents and adhere to specific style conventions, making them a wardrobe essential for black-tie occasions.
Finding the Right Fit
Ensuring the right fit and measurements is crucial whether you're buying a men's suit in-store or online. You might be wondering which suit measurements are essential to know well.
Shoulder Width: The ideal shoulder width should align with the body structure underneath the suit jacket. Shoulders that are too narrow can cause wrinkles, mainly on the top of the suit and the upper part of the arms, while overly wide shoulders may result in gaps inside the jacket.
Jacket Closure: A perfectly fitted jacket will exhibit a precise button closure, with both sides meeting seamlessly. If the suit jacket is too tight, you'll notice the lapels widening on the sides, whereas if it's too loose, a gap will form in the front. There may be slight variations depending on the suit's overall fit.
Sleeve Length: Ideally, the jacket sleeves should allow the shirt beneath to peek out slightly at the end. Sleeves that are too short will leave a significant gap between the arm's wrist and the sleeve's end, while overly long sleeves will entirely cover the shirt beneath the suit.
Jacket Length: A well-fitted jacket should meet your arm fingers when the arm is straightened. If the jacket length falls around your wrist, it's too short, and if it extends far past your arms' length, it's too long.
Jacket Collar: The perfect collar should fit smoothly against the collar of your shirt. A tight jacket collar may restrict movement, while a loose collar can create a gap in the back.
Seat: The ideal trouser seat will maintain a neat line on the back of your trousers. Tight pants may cause wrinkles, especially at the back, while overly baggy pants can create a gap between the leg, thigh, and trousers.
Trouser Break: The perfect trouser length will break precisely at the top of your shoes. If the pants fall short of your shoes, they're too short, and if they extend too far, the fabric will bunch up around your shoes.
Understanding Suit Construction
Knowledge of suit construction, particularly the canvas layer, helps in selecting suits that retain their shape and durability.
-Full Canvas: Featuring a canvas base throughout the jacket, full canvas suits offer superior fit and longevity, albeit at a higher price point.
-Half Canvas: Utilising canvas only at the chest and lapel, half canvas suits provide a balance of quality and affordability, with improved breathability compared to full canvas options.
Exploring Pants Styles
While the jacket is the focal point of a suit, the pants' style and cut also contribute to overall aesthetics.
-Flat-Front Pants: Sleek and slimming, flat-front pants offer a contemporary look that complements various body types.
-Pleated Pants: Featuring pleats below the hip area, pleated pants offer a looser fit suitable for certain body shapes but may not be ideal for disguising midsection bulges.
-Cuffed Hem Pants: Adding a turn-up at the bottom of the pant leg, cuffed hem pants provide a slightly informal yet polished appearance, with suitability depending on the pant style.
A Concise Guide to Essential Suit Types for Men
So, where should you begin? As you gain confidence, you'll naturally explore and refine your personal style. However, here's a quick overview to help most men choose the right suits:
First Suit: Opt for a navy, single-breasted wool suit with minimal embellishments. This versatile piece will serve you well in various settings, making it an excellent starting point. While gray is an option, navy remains a timeless classic.
Building for Work: Consider adding a charcoal suit to your collection, followed by some pinstripes for variety. While black is an option, it's less practical than commonly believed and often requires patterns to break its sombre tone.
Elevate Your Wardrobe: Incorporate at least one blazer into your rotation for effortless dressing up or down. Navy and grey are solid choices, but don't shy away from other colors. Avoid white blazers as they're closely associated with black-tie events. Every man beyond his teens should own at least one semi-formal blazer or sportcoat, essential for business casual and semi-formal occasions.
Warm Climate Considerations: While a formal wool suit is essential, consider adding cooler, softer linen suits for comfort in hot climates.
Black-Tie Affairs: Ensure you have a tuxedo or a white dinner jacket paired with black pants (known as a tropical dinner suit) in your wardrobe. These are must-haves for black-tie events, providing an elegant and appropriate ensemble.
Suit Glossary
-Bespoke: Tailored from scratch by a master tailor based on individual measurements, bespoke suits offer the highest level of customization and craftsmanship.
-Break: The part of the pant leg that rests on top of the shoe, with options ranging from full breaks to no breaks for different style preferences.
-Button Stance: The height of a suit jacket's waist buttons, influencing its overall appearance.
-Canvas: A layer of fabric between the suit jacket's lining and outer material, providing structure and shape.
-Gorge: The point where the collar meets the lapel on a suit jacket.
-Lapel: The folded portion of the suit jacket's front, available in notch, peak, and shawl styles.
-Lining: The inner layer of fabric in a suit jacket, varying from half-lined to fully-lined options.
-Made-To-Measure: Suits cut from standard templates and adjusted to fit individual measurements, offering a balance between bespoke and off-the-rack options.
-Off-The-Rack: Standard suits available for purchase without customization.
-Pick Stitching: Decorative stitching along the edges of a suit jacket, indicating attention to detail.
-Pockets: Functional elements on the suit jacket, including flap, patch, and ticket pockets.
-Side Tabs: Adjustable features on suit pants used instead of belt loops.
-Shoulders: The upper part of the suit jacket, influencing its shape and fit.
Choosing the perfect bespoke suit is a journey‐a journey of self-discovery, craftsmanship, and refinement. With careful consideration of fit, style, and craftsmanship, you can embark on this journey with confidence, knowing that your bespoke suit will not only enhance your appearance but also elevate your entire wardrobe. Embrace the art of tailoring, and let your bespoke suit become a timeless expression of your unique style and personality.
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